Saint-Émilion: A Classification of Its Own
Saint-Émilion, with its honey-colored château, narrow cobbled streets and ancient ecclesiastical heritage, has always felt a world away from the grand, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated vineyards of the Médoc. Here, on the right bank of Bordeaux, the soil is made up of limestone, sand and clay, which is cooler than the gravel-dominated left bank and allows the Merlot grape to thrive, producing a rich, heady wine. Visit on a mid-summer’s day and you can’t fail to be touched by the charm of this Unesco World Heritage site.
But it isn’t just the beauty or the style of its wines that differentiates Saint-Émilion from the rest of Bordeaux. As the port of Bordeaux thrived under its 18th-century maritime trade, wealthy businessmen set up shop on the newly drained Médoc, building spectacular châteaux and planting large wine estates. It was a different story across the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. In Saint-Émilion, small holders were and still are the order of the day. Indeed, before the world—particularly the U.S. market—woke up to the quality of these wines in the 1980s, most of Bordeaux’s merchants and traders barely paid attention to them. Wines that now command thousands of pounds a bottle could be snapped up for relatively little.
Now the area around the town of Libourne is home to some of the most precious names in wines, including Château Ausone and Cheval Blanc. Which is why last week, when the latest classification of Saint-Émilion wines was announced, the wine world took note.
Bordeaux has four major classifications for its fine wines: the Médoc, which was drawn up in 1855 for the Paris Universal Exhibition and lists 61 left bank châteaux in five tiers otherwise known as growths; Barsac and Sauternes, drawn up the same year and containing three growths; the Graves, a simple one-tier system; and Saint-Émilion, which published in 1955. By far the most famous is the 1855 classification of the Médoc, which was based on the value of the wine when the list was drawn up. In reality this had evolved over the centuries as various brokers and merchants drew up a list of the most popular wines. Despite a few minor tweaks, most notably Mouton-Rothschild being elevated to First Growth status in 1973, the list has barely changed.
Saint-Émilion’s classification is an altogether more fluid and inclusive system. First mooted in the late 1940s, it has been reviewed and republished in 1969, 1985, 1996, 2006 and now. The 2006 classification was mired by a row in which various châteaux that had been demoted challenged the legality of the process. A lengthy court battle ensued. According to the Conseil des Vins de Saint-Émilion, it was eventually resolved by the passing of a new law in 2009, whereby all the châteaux classified in 1996 and those recently included in 2006 could use the term Grand Cru Classé or Premier Grand Cru Classé on their labels. The rancor was, in the words of the Saint-Émilion wine council, “a severe wake-up call for the appellation.”
As a result, the new classification is based under the supervision of the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité. Quality control tastings are carried out, with each estate submitting its wine for regular review. Wines are tasted blind by seven recognized winemakers from outside the Bordeaux region. Terroir and the estates’ market position are also taken into account. In total, 82 properties have been classified into three tiers: Premier Grand Cru Classé A, Premier Grand Cru Classé B and Grand Cru Classé.
Eyebrows have been raised that Château Pavie and Château Angelus have joined Ausone and Cheval Blanc in the top tier. Pavie is particularly controversial because in its modern inception it has a richer, denser, riper flavor—which some argue has more to do with modern winemaking than reflecting the style of the vineyard. But both undoubtedly make spectacular wine and routinely sell for more than £1,000 a case. Franck Binard, director of the Saint-Émilion wine council, said that the classification will be renewed in the future. This will encourage châteaux to up their game, which for the consumer, can only be a good thing.
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10000872396390443819404577637152807600994.html?mod=googlenews_wsj
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(045) 599-5600
0922-870-5178
0917-520-4401
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Yats Restaurant & Wine Bar
Mimosa Drive past Holiday Inn, Mimosa Leisure Estate,
Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga, Philippines 2023
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 Rea or Chay
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