Dolcetto d’Alba
September 20, 2011
I have a young friend who’s extremely adept in craftwork. Pottery is her forte, but almost anything she makes, be it jewelry, sculpture, or cloth work, demonstrates her artisan’s hand and is strikingly unique. Recently she chose to give me a friendship bracelet. You’ve probably seen one before: six strands of variously colored embroidery thread tightly knotted to form an attractive pattern. I am quite touched by this little gift, whose charm lies in its simplicity and whose value in its intimation of the maker’s affection for me.
As I sat down to write about Dolcetto d’Alba, I thought of this bracelet, because many producers of this wine from Italy’s Piedmont district are adept at making some of the most complex and prized wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco. But when they share a glass of wine with friends, it’s their simple Dolcetto that they are most likely to serve. Perhaps, like my friend, they feel that simple gifts best convey deep emotions.
Although the name “Dolcetto” (a diminutive of the Italian dolce meaning “sweet”) might lead you to believe it to be a sweet wine, it is in fact quite dry. The name might be more attributable to the Dolcetto grape’s low acidity. This early ripening grape is widely grown in the Piedmont. Although there are a number of distinct appellations, (Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto di Diana d’Alba, etc.), Dolcetto d’Alba is perhaps the most popular and widely available. It’s this Dolcetto that’s the focus of our feature.
There seem to be at least two styles of Dolcetto d’Alba. The first might be characterized as ebullient and charming, with a sweet floral nose and rich fruit on the palate tempered by mild tannins and followed with a hint of almonds on the finish. The second is more austere and reserved, with drier flavors, and possibly more spice and a distinctive bitter almond finish. Neither style, however, has the complexity that other wines from this region might have, but both have their charms. They are also generally high in alcohol (approximately 12.5%) but quite easy to drink.
When shopping for Dolcetto, look for youth not age: one or two years after vintage is best. Although exceptions might be made for great vintages, I’d be wary of wines older than three years. Among the best producers are Ceretto, Aldo Conterno, Angelo Gaja, Bruno Giacossa, Prunotto, Giuseppe Ratto, and Vietti.
Because these wines are not very complex and relatively low in acidity, I’d recommend serving them with simple pasta dishes, poultry, and light meats. For our tasting, we chose penne served with a simple tomato sauce enriched with chunks of chevre. These wines would also be great with a cheese board after dinner or maybe simply with a hunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano on an autumn afternoon. So why not set some cheese out, break open a bottle, and ask a friend over to share a glass or two.
For our tasting, we chose ten wines. We tasted each individually unaccompanied by food and then chose several to sample with our pasta.
Source: http://www.tablewine.com/archiv21.htm
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Mimosa Drive past Holiday Inn, Mimosa Leisure Estate,
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